Italian food: Prosecco Bisol and the cuisine of Antonia Klugman at St Regis in Rome by Laura Casaldi
Translation of original article posted on April 1, 2014: http://cucinadettagli.blogspot.it/2014/04/il-prosecco-bisol-e-la-cucina-di.html
This past March 26th at the St. Regis in Rome the ribbon was cut on the 2014 edition of " Winery with a Kitchen", featuring Bisol Prosecco in conjunction with the cuisine of the Stellar Chef Antonia Klugman. A consolidated marriage that gave birth to a dinner – a tasting for 4 where this Chef rivelazione of 2013 according to Il Sole 24 ore had designed and implemented a menu with the Chef patron (Master Chef) and proprietor of the restaurant Vivendo, Francesco Donatelli.
It is a unique opportunity for the palate to rediscover the taste of all of the flavors and aromas of the lagoon on the island of Murano Mazzorbo at the Murata vineyard of the Bisol family and to see how they find expression in the cuisine of the Ristorante la Venissa. This taste experience is directed by the young, yet energetic Antonia, who uses the raw materials from the Tenuta (estate) to their best advantage and who delivers creative dishes that play with tradition without ever betraying it.
I was particularly struck by the love nurtured and evidenced in the vegetables , protagonists of the dishes , together with the fish of course, and how the cuisine of the evening was so well accompanied and rose to the challenge of the Champagne that was launched by the Bisol family. In fact, as stated by Gianluca , General Manager of the company , his family has worked for years "with great passion to prove that the Conegliano has the same level of prestige as Reims, the Valdobbiadene the same charm as Epernay, and the Prosecco the same fame as Champagne ."
And the promise was, in my opinion, kept by what was served at the table. It started with the bubbles of the DOCG Cru Crede served in the private wine cellar of the restaurant Vivendo , which we sipped between polpettina di tonno al Bloody Mary (tuna dumpling with Bloody Mary) and a sarda fritta e brodo di mela ( fried fish and apple broth). Also memorable are the small creme brulee with parmesan and a caramel bisque by Chef Donatelli , where sweet and savory meet halfway and leave a pleasant , persistent memory on the palate.
We sit down for dinner and an antipasto di Anguilla (eel appetizer) cooked in Molera (another Prosecco by Valdobbiadene ) prepared by Chef Klugman , which exceeds all my expectations. I find it surprisingly un-greasy yet tasty enough to confer the taste of the celery and wild green chard that accompany the fish. The dish is served with a noSO2, a Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG without added sulfites which, given its freshness, goes well with seafood and raw fish.
We continue with a dish that I will not easily forget. I don’t have words to describe the cannelloni stuffed with salt cod and turnips by Antonia Klugman , perhaps a triumph of flavors that interact with each other in perfect harmony, amplified by the softness of a Private Cartizze Pas Dosé approaches the sensation.
The baton now passes to the Master Chef Donatelli who, with his trio consisting of rombo con zucchini (turbot with zucchini), baccalà con ceci al rosmarino (salt cod with chickpeas in rosemary) and capesanta in carrozza (scallops) , goes perhaps only a little less straight to the heart than the Eliseo Metodo classico that was particularly appreciated at our table.
But, he comes back to surprise me with a tasty dessert , which is elegant and balanced, and supported by a Cartizze which closes a sparkling evening of excellence in cuisine and wines in the best way possible.
The other companies involved in the program 2014 edition of " Winery with a Kitchen" will be the Damiliano growers who will be presented in tandem with the cuisine of the Stellar Chef Massimo Camia, and the Tasca D’ Almerita winery that will present the Sicilian gastronomic dishes of Fabrizia Tasca Lanza for the occasion.
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Translation to English of article about Italian food provided by Lina de la Torre